Chrysler 2.2 Turbo Survival Guide | Common Problems
Survival Guide

1985 Chrysler Town & Country Turbo Survival Guide

A beginner-friendly guide to owning, fixing, and understanding one of Chrysler's strangest fake-wood turbo wagons.

Quick Answers

Five things most 2.2 Turbo owners want to know.

These are the short answers. The rest of the guide explains the systems, evidence, and repair stories behind them.

Factory or period source Specialist reference Observed on this wagon Diagnosis status
Factory system

Is the Chrysler 2.2 Turbo reliable?

It can be reliable when its cooling, oiling, fuel, ignition, and vacuum systems are healthy. Age, neglected hoses, overheating, wiring trouble, and incorrect previous repairs are often the bigger ownership problem. A forty-year-old example should be judged by condition and test results, not reputation alone.

Common trouble areas

What problems should an owner expect?

Start with cooling-system faults, vacuum or boost leaks, aging electrical connections, fuel-delivery problems, and oil or PCV leaks. The 1985 engine controls also use separate logic and power modules, so later Chrysler computer advice does not always apply.

Safety first

What should I check before driving one?

Check cold coolant level and leaks, engine oil, fuel leaks, belts, hoses, tires, brakes, charging voltage, and stored fault codes. Do not drive it if it overheats, rapidly loses coolant, leaks fuel, loses oil pressure, or has unsafe brakes or steering.

Parts reality

Can you still find parts for a 2.2 Turbo?

Many maintenance and shared K-car parts are still available, but turbo-specific electronics, trim, wagon body parts, and calibration-sensitive components can be difficult. Record original part numbers and verify the exact year, engine, emissions setup, and connector before ordering.

Built-in diagnostics

Can I diagnose one without a modern scan tool?

Yes, many first checks use ordinary tools and the car's built-in lamp-flash fault codes. On this early Chrysler system, codes can be retrieved without an OBD-II scanner. Codes identify a circuit or operating problem to test, not automatically a bad part.

Start Here

So you found one of these things.

The 1985 Chrysler Town & Country Turbo wagon is not a normal project car. It is part family wagon, part fake-wood time capsule, part turbo Mopar oddity, and part mechanical group project with everyone who owned it before you.

This guide is not written from the perspective of an expert. It is written from the perspective of someone learning while trying to save one.

That means this page is practical, honest, and heavily based on what has already gone wrong on my own wagon.

This is not the official manual. It is the “what I wish I understood before crawling under the dash” version. General 2.2 Turbo advice and evidence from my own wagon are labeled separately, because one old Chrysler's problem is not automatically every old Chrysler's problem.
Engine & Drivability

The 2.2 turbo makes things interesting.

The turbo 2.2 is one of the reasons this wagon is cool. It is also one of the reasons the engine bay can feel like a tiny museum of vacuum lines, sensors, hoses, mystery routing, and previous-owner creativity.

Factory system: 1985 Turbo I Repair examples: BWG wagon

PCV Valve

A small part that can create annoying drivability problems when ignored.

Throttle Body

Cleaning the throttle body was one of my early attempts to improve hard starting and rough running.

Spark Plugs

All four plugs from my wagon were very sooty. Plug #1 also had clear liquid on the firing tip, which became an important clue in the cooling diagnosis.

Vacuum Lines

If you bought a turbo Mopar, congratulations. You also bought a vacuum hose puzzle.

Boost Leaks

Lost boost can come from cracked hoses, loose connections, bad routing, or old parts giving up.

Fuel Smell

Fuel smell after shutdown is one of those issues I do not want to ignore.

Cooling System

Overheating is the big scary one.

Cooling problems are one of the biggest reasons my wagon is not road-ready. On an old turbo car, I would rather be slow and careful than cook the engine because I got impatient.

As general advice, start with a cold engine and inspect the coolant level, radiator cap and neck, recovery hose, radiator, hoses, clamps, fan operation, thermostat installation, belt condition, and obvious leaks. Pressure testing and combustion-gas testing can reveal more, but coolant pushed from the radiator neck does not prove a failed head gasket by itself.

General diagnostic sequence Do not open a hot cooling system

Thermostat

Replacing the thermostat was a reasonable first step. The job was completed, but it did not stop the overheating.

Compression Test

Cylinder #1 repeatedly measured 61 psi. Cylinders #2, #3, and #4 each measured 140 psi. That confirms a major compression problem in #1.

Cooling System Diagnosis

The wet #1 plug, continued overheating, radiator-neck surge, and uneven compression now have to be considered together.

Head Gasket Investigation

A failed head gasket or cylinder-head problem is now the leading explanation, but the exact leak path still needs leak-down testing or teardown to confirm it.

Observed on this wagon Confirmed: cylinder #1 has a major compression problem. Likely The head gasket or cylinder head is involved. Still unknown The exact failed part, where pressure is escaping, and whether the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
My wagon's #1 cylinder: 61 psi with the radiator cap installed and 61 psi with it removed.
Cylinders #2, #3, and #4: 140 psi each.
Other evidence: clear liquid on the firing tip of plug #1 and coolant surging from the radiator neck.
Current status: paused and not roadworthy. The engine will not be run again while the cause remains unresolved.
BWG diagnosis video

Three cylinders had 140 PSI. One had 61.

The video connects the compression results to the wet #1 spark plug, overheating, coolant surge, and the reason the project is currently paused.

Sources & Method

What this guide is based on.

Factory information controls specifications and procedures. Specialist archives help explain early Chrysler systems and parts realities. The BWG repair pages document observations from this specific wagon. Sources were reviewed August 13, 2026.

Factory-style service information

Operation CHARM: 1985 Chrysler 2.2L Turbo VIN E provides year- and engine-specific repair and diagnostic material for the shared Turbo I system.

Period training

Chrysler Master Tech Turbo EFI drivability training explains how Chrysler's early turbo fuel-injection and engine-control systems work.

Specialist reference

MiniMopar's Chrysler ECU guide documents the separate logic module and power module used on 1984 through 1987 fuel-injected Chrysler four-cylinder systems.

Specialist reference

Turbo Dodge Parts vacuum and boost diagrams includes distinct 1985 Turbo I diagrams and separates Federal, California, and Canadian configurations.

Library access

Los Angeles Public Library ChiltonLibrary provides repair information for checking procedures and specifications against a recognized service reference.

Firsthand evidence

The BWG low-compression diagnosis, compression test, and spark-plug inspection document what was actually observed and measured on this wagon.

This page is educational, not a substitute for the correct factory procedure. Configuration-sensitive details still need to be matched to the vehicle's underhood emissions label, original part numbers, and physical components.
Electrical & Dash

The dash is a whole adventure.

Old Chrysler dashboards are full of fragile plastic, strange access angles, tiny bulbs, questionable previous work, and wiring harnesses that may or may not be connected when you find them.

Dash Lights

Only half of my dash lit up, which started the whole instrument cluster investigation.

Instrument Cluster

I found a disconnected harness, documented bulbs, failed to reconnect the speedometer cable, and gained new respect for old plastic.

Dimmer Switch

A tiny part with a surprising ability to make the dashboard feel haunted.

Power Locks

Sometimes an old electrical problem is not dead. Sometimes it just needs cleaning, lubrication, and encouragement.

Interior

The inside is where small wins feel big.

Interior work matters because it changes how the wagon feels immediately. The engine might still have questions, but at least the headliner no longer looks like it is trying to become a blanket.

Sagging Headliner

An $8 fix that actually worked and made the interior feel better right away.

Interior LEDs

The plan is to keep the factory green glow, just brighter and more reliable.

Speaker Grilles

Small details still matter. This one is waiting its turn.

Old Plastic Rule

No yanking. No forcing. No “I bet this will flex.” It probably will not.

Suspension

Trying to make it less boat-like.

The wagon rides like an old wagon, which is charming until it becomes unclear whether the charm is actually worn-out suspension.

Coil Springs

I tried installing coil spring spacers. The wagon said no. The next attempt involves removing the wheels and trying again.

Rear Shocks

Rear shock research is still on the list. I am checking fitment before buying parts, because old-car listings are very confident even when they are wrong.

The goal is not performance. The goal is comfortable, predictable, safe, and slightly less floaty.
Paint & Body

The previous paint job is now my problem.

The wagon came with heavy orange peel, mystery roof bondo, primer burn-through, and a lot of evidence that somebody else already had a very long afternoon with this car.

Paint Mistake Recovery

The orange peel paint job came with the car. Sanding revealed that the story went deeper than bad paint.

Rattle Can Paint Prep

The slow lesson that preparation matters more than paint.

Sometimes I am fixing the wagon. Sometimes I am fixing the last repair.
Parts & Resources

Finding parts is part of the project.

The hardest part is not always the repair. Sometimes it is figuring out what part fits, whether anyone still sells it, and whether the listing is actually for the right version of the car.

Parts Sources

The places that still help keep these old wagons on the road.

Turbo Mopar Resources

Forums, archives, and communities are essential when the normal search results stop helping.

Manuals & Diagrams

Because guessing at 1980s Chrysler wiring is how you create new problems.

What I Know So Far

The survival rules.

Rule 1: Do not assume the previous repair was done correctly.
Rule 2: Photograph everything before taking it apart.
Rule 3: Old plastic is not flexible. It is waiting to betray you.
Rule 4: Vacuum lines deserve labels, patience, and emotional support.
Rule 5: Cooling issues get respect. No hero driving.
Rule 6: Research counts as progress when the alternative is buying the wrong parts.
Rule 7: If something feels rigged, it probably has a story.
Rule 8: Sometimes the repair is figuring out why the repair is not working.

Still learning. Still fixing.

This guide will keep growing as the wagon keeps revealing new problems, old repairs, and tiny victories.